Athens
Without the Greeks, there would be no Western civilisation. Huge parts of the knowledge we take for granted today are thanks to the ancient civilisation founded in this small corner of the Mediterranean 3,000 years ago. It is no understatement: Athens is where the modern world was born.
While many holidaymakers treat Athens as only a stop-over en route to the islands, Greece's capital city remains a repository for its cultural treasures and the very core of its identity.
The great Greek thinkers Pythagoras, Archimedes, Socrates and Plato are still household names today, not bad for a bunch of philosophers and mathematicians that have been dead for millennia. Visit Athens, and the remnants of the Greek Empire scattered all over the city make it easy to imagine these fathers of civilisation who once occupied the Ancient Agora, the social and commercial centre of the city.
It is on the Acropolis, the ancient hill fort that rises above modern day Athens, that you'll find the most spectacular remains. The Parthenon, the Temple to Athena Nike and the Erechtheion are all located here and together they create one of the most spectacular and memorable backdrops of any city in the world.
But Athens's neighbourhoods - especially the Plaka with its relaxed cafés and excellent markets - are by no means relics of the past. Browsing the bazaars in these bustling, lively locales make a welcome break from touring the sites of the ancients.
And Athens also has its modern side. The central district is distinctly third millennium and the walk from the Acropolis to the modern buildings that surround Constitution Square takes you through 3,000 years of human civilisation - a unique experience.
THE ACROPOLIS
The Acropolis, one of the most important groups of ancient monuments in the Western World, is the highlight of any visit to Athens.
On entering the complex through the original gateway, or propylaia, you'll see the Parthenon, Temple of Athena and Erechtheion laid out before you: an impressive sight by anyone's standards. Though the buildings are crumbling and constantly under renovation, this barely detracts from the original splendour of the site and it's hard to believe that these structures date back almost two and a half millennia.
Built between 447 and 438BC and named after Athena Parthenos, the goddess of Athens, the Parthenon has long been Greece's most beloved monument. Constructed almost entirely of fine white Pentelic marble, the structure has always held strong religious significance, having undergone incarnations as a church and mosque since its original use as a traditional Greek temple.
The Erechtheion is famed mainly for its elegant caryatids supporting the side porch, though those on display today are in fact all replicas. Five of the originals are kept in the Acropolis Museum; the sixth can be seen at London's British Museum.
The remaining treasures from the site that haven't been carted off to London are predominantly housed in the Museum of the Acropolis (located behind the Parthenon) where there are a number of beautifully renovated sculptures and a variety of other artefacts.
Open: daily 08h00-18h00 (Acropolis Archaeological site). The New Acropolis Museum is expected to open at the beginning of 2009. From Saturday 15 November the ground floor of the Museum and the temporary exhibition NOSTOI will be open to the public until 30 December 2008. Open daily 10h00-17h00, Thu 10h00-22h00. Admission: EUR12, adults; free for children. Covered by the Acropolis Pass. Tel: +30 210-321-0219.
THE PLAKA
The Plaka district is the most atmospheric part of Athens for strolling. It contains many of the city's finest monuments, attractions and restaurants and still retains an air of the ancient city.
Dusty, hot and frenetic through the day, by night it is cool and full of character. The Plaka is also home to a permanently lively street culture of souvenir pedlars and outdoor markets that bring life to the atmospheric streets.
ANCIENT AGORA
The Ancient Agora was crucial to Athens as far back as the 6th century BC, when it was the centre of social, commercial and political life.
The site has been heavily excavated and a number of monuments are now visible, all giving an insight into the administrative day-to-day workings of Ancient Greece. Most notable are the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, dating from the 5th century BC and believed to be where Socrates and his coterie often met, and the fantastically well-preserved Temple of Hephaistos, also known as the Theseion.
Adrianou, Monastiraki. Open: daily 08h00-18h00. Admission: EUR4, adults; free for children. Covered by the Acropolis Pass. Tel: +30 210-321-0185.
ROMAN AGORA
The Roman Agora includes impressively preserved monuments such as the Gate of Athena Archegetis, which dates back to Julius Caesar's reign, and the marble hulk of the Tower of the Winds.
Like the Ancient Agora before it, during the Roman occupation this was the centre of the city's commercial and social life. The Byzantines and the Turks built over the Roman site during subsequent occupations and it is only relatively recently that the area has undergone extensive excavation and restoration.
Corner of Pelopida & Eolou, Aerides. Open: daily 08h30-18h00. Admission: EUR2, adults; free for children. Covered by the Acropolis Pass. Tel: +30 210-324-5220.
TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS
This was the largest temple in all of Ancient Greece and was built over a period of 600 years starting in the 6th century BC.
The Temple of Olympian Zeus originally boasted 104 Corinthian columns in marble, just 13 of which are still standing. Often referred to simply as the "Kolonnes" (columns) the impressive ruins make it easy to imagine the glory of the full structure.
Corner of Vas Olgas & Amalias, Plaka. Open: daily 08h00-15h00. Admission: EUR2, adults; free for children. Covered by the Acropolis Pass. Tel: +30 210-922-6330.
NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSUM
In a country blessed with so many ancient treasures, it is no surprise that the National Archaeological Museum is so spectacular.
The museum's marvels include a beautiful collection of classical sculptures and bronzes found at various archaeological sites; prehistoric objects; ancient Greek pottery and Egyptian artefacts. The massive collection is impossible to cover fully in one visit - if time allows, it is best to plan two or three separate trips in order to see all that the museum has to offer without burning yourself out.
Patission 44, Exarchia. Open: Mon 10h30-17h00, Tue-Sun 08h30-15h00 (Nov-May); Mon 12h30-19h00, Tue-Sun 08h00-19h00 (Jun-Oct). Admission: EUR7, adults; free for children. Tel: +30 210-821-7717.
SYNTAGMA SQUARE
Syntagma (or "Constitution") Square is a more modern part of the city. The main focus is the parliament building, originally constructed as a royal palace in the 18th century.
Today the square is a focal point for political demonstrations - but most tourists are more interested in getting their pictures taken with the goose-stepping Evzones, who guard the palace. Don't let the elaborate costume and pom-pommed slippers fool you - these are the crème de la crème of the Greek army and are fiercely proud (and tough as well).
There is a changing of the guard ceremony every Sunday at 11h00.
PANATHENIAN STADIUM
This cavernous arena is where the first Modern Olympics were held in 1896 although there is evidence that games of some sort or another were a fixture here long before that.
The 1896 stadium was built on the site of a former Roman arena and is a fitting icon of the world's foremost sporting event. It has now been restored twice and has a full capacity of 70,000 spectators.
The stadium was brought back to life for the 2004 Olympic Games: although most events were held in modern, purpose-built venues, the Panathenian hosted the archery contests and was also where the marathon culminated.
Vas. Konstantinou, Mets. Open: daily 08h00-20h00. Admission: free.
LYKAVITTOS HILL
The highest point in the city, the bulk of Lykavittos Hill rises over 270 metres, and was (according to legend) originally created by Athena, when she dropped a rock destined for the Acropolis.
The name translates to "Wolves Hill" but none of the animals seem to have remained in the modern city that nowadays surrounds the hill. From the top there are stunning views right across Athens as far as the city port of Piraeus, but you'll have to work for them if you plan to ascend the hill by foot: the path up is on a steep incline with steps half way up.
Alternatively avoid the hard graft and catch the funicular up from Kolonaki. There's even a restaurant at the top, where you can enjoy a drink with Athens spread out below you. To access the funicular from Evangelismos station, walk up Ploutharou. Admission: EUR4.50, return.
ATHENS SEA FRONT
Especially during the steamy summer months, the seaside provides a welcome - not to say essential - getaway from Athens city centre.
The most popular area for beachside cooling off - for locals and tourists alike - is the long coastal avenue of Posidonos, which can easily be reached by tram from Syntagma Square, the journey to the first seaside stations Edem or Batis taking around 40 minutes. The resorts along this coast are all packed with cafés, restaurants and bars - and throngs of visitors, especially at the weekends. Deserted beaches these aren't, , but they are nonetheless sandy and the sea is clean enough to swim in.
The other main coastal resort is the port of Piraeus, the main terminus for day trips to nearby islands. Piraeus is also quite lively and has a number of restaurants and bars. It is accessible via metro line 1 from Omonia or Monastiraki stations.
GETTING ABOUT
Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport
Athens Airport, Eleftherios Venizelos, is located 30km east of the city centre and is conveniently served by train, bus and taxi. For more information, contact the Airport Call Centre, Tel: +30 210-353-0000.
Buses
You can travel to the city centre or many other destinations on the express airport buses. All buses run 24 hours a day, seven days a week, departing approximately every 20-30 minutes from outside exit doors 4 and 5 of the main terminal building. When travelling to the airport, passengers will disembark at Departures level.
Line E92 travels to Kifisia; E93 to Kifisos intercity bus station; E94 to Ethniki Amyna metro station; E95 to Syntagma Square; E96 to Pireas; and E97 to Dafni Metro Station. The one-way ticket costs EUR3.20 and is also valid for an unlimited number of trips on all public transport until the end of the day the ticket has been purchased and validated. Tickets can be bought from the bus driver, at metro stations and at public transport ticket outlets. Make sure you validate your ticket at the beginning of your journey.
Metro
A new metro system from the airport has been built and is very effective. The fact that it is air-conditioned and spacious is also welcome on hot days. The metro leaves from the airport station, which is 10 minutes' walk from the Arrivals doors. When outside exit 2 or 3, take the lift to level 1 situated on the other side of the road and then walk to the station via a long platform. The metro (line 3) goes from Athens International Airport to Monastiraki and leaves every 30 minutes. A single ticket to Monastiraki costs EUR6 per person, with reductions for groups of two (EUR10) or three people (EUR15). The journey takes around 30 minutes to Monastiraki.
Taxis
There are always plenty of yellow cabs waiting outside door 3 of the Arrivals hall. Be aware that during rush hours the city centre is almost completely gridlocked and waiting in a taxi can be an expensive business. Some taxi drivers would rather not enter the city centre at peak times and will offer to drop you off at a convenient point outside the centre. You should expect to pay around EUR25 to get to the city, although depending on time of day this can increase substantially.
If you're planning to travel around a lot by public transport, it might be worth investing in a one-day travelcard, which costs EUR3 and is valid on all forms of transport. All tickets must be validated at the beginning of your journey. The fine for a non-validated ticket is forty times its value.
Metro/Trains
There are three metro lines in Athens. Line M1 goes from Kifissia to Pireas, M2 from Aghios Antonios to Aghios Dimitrios, and M3 from Athens Airport to Monastiraki. Trains run from 05h30 to 00h15 every 3 to 10 minutes. A single ticket costs EUR0.80 (EUR0.50 for reduced fares) and is valid for 90 minutes. Metro station names are written in both Greek and the Roman alphabet.
An electric train system also covers the suburbs with trains running south to the port of Piraeus where ferries leave for the Greek Islands.
Tram
A tramway line runs from Syntagma Square to Sef, north of Posidonos Avenue; and to Kolimvitirio, south of Posidonos Avenue. From Mousson station where transfers can be made to change directions on the line, the tram runs by the seafront. There are automatic ticket machines at each tram stop. A single ticket costs EUR0.80. If travelling on another mode of public transport and wishing to transfer to the tram system, your existing ticket can be used as long as it has been validated within the last 90 minutes. Trams run from 06h00 to 01h00 every 8 minutes, and from 01h00 to 06h00 every 40 minutes. Tram station names are also written in both Greek and Roman alphabets.
Buses
Buses offer a fairly comprehensive 24-hour service. However, note that destinations are only written in the Greek alphabet, which can problematic for non-Greek-speakers. Single bus trips cost EUR0.80, available from metro stations, public transport offices and kiosks.
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