Berlin
Say Berlin and people immediately think of the Wall, even though it is over a decade since "Die Mauer" was broken down. But Berlin has much more to offer and is growing in popularity with tourists wanting something with a bit more grit than most European destinations.
It is undeniable that the years of division took their toll on Berlin - and the pieces of the wall that remain standing remind you that there is a lot of reparation still to be done before Berlin and Germany will be able to completely forget the past. However, Berlin is leading the way, and although you still might glimpse a few shards of the old Communist ways in the east of the city, they are becoming less and less common each year.
People often expect Berlin to be a concrete jungle. But post-wall, times have changed and nowadays nothing could be further from the truth. In the West super-modern buildings provide a backdrop for a dynamic and cosmopolitan city that is distinctly new millennium in outlook. The East meanwhile is a model of twenty-first century urban development - the grey Communist concrete has been replaced with gleaming new structures that look to the city's future rather than dwelling on the past.
Most of the city's vibrancy comes from the Berliners themselves. The population has grabbed the new post-wall opportunities with both hands and it makes Berlin an extremely exciting and lively place to visit. It is as if the city is making up for lost time and in the bars and excellent restaurants you'll find the Berliners are a far cry from the staid German stereotype that is propagated throughout Europe.
Visit Berlin and you'll find a zest for living that is irresistible and an energy that will infuse anyone.
SIGHT SEEING
With two distinct sides to its character and a wealth of history, both ancient and modern, Berlin is one of the most interesting city destinations in Europe.
The Berlin Welcome Card provides discounts on most major Berlin attractions, as well as free travel on public transport within the city for one adult and up to three children aged 6-13. It also supplemented by a handy Berlin Guide in both German and English. The card, which can be obtained from railway stations, all ticket machines and sales points in the S-Banh and BVG public transit system, at Berlin airports, in numerous hotels and tourist information centres, costs: |
THE REICHTAG
The ascendancy of Germany's parliamentary house, the Reichstag, is largely thanks to British architect Norman Foster, who transformed the original building with the addition of a distinctive glass dome, famously to symbolise the new transparency in German politics. A more immediately appealing aspect of this symbolic structure is the fantastic views of the city the dome affords. It's worth arriving either early in the morning or late in the evening, as queues tend to be long and tedious in the middle of the day.
MUSEUMSINSEL
As the name suggests, Museumsinsel is quite literally an island in the River Spree that is home to some of Berlin's foremost museums, and hence an ideal spot to start a cultural tour of the city. This collection of museums have also been designated as a site of UNESCO World Heritage in 1999.
The best loved of the institutions here is the Pergamon Museum (Am Kupfergraben), an enormous collection of predominantly Classical and Islamic antiquities, its centrepiece the impressive Pergamon Altar, a hefty marble frieze of Greek mythological scenes dating from the 2nd century BC.
Just behind the Pergamon, the Old National Gallery, or Alte Nationalgalerie (Bodestrasse), is well worth visiting if you're a fan of 19th-century art. Spanning the entire century, the large body of works between them represent most of the main German art movements of the period, as well as a number of French Impressionists.
The other institution currently open in the complex is the Altes Museum (Lustgarten, next to the cathedral), home to some fine examples of Roman and Greek statuary and an impressive collection of Etruscan art behind its stately - and somewhat intimidating - 19th-century façade.
The Bode reopened in 2006 after major renovation works, displaying Germany's largest collection of sculptures dating from the Middle Ages and later, Numismatic Collection (coin series dating from 7th century BC to coins and medals of the 21st century) and works from the Gemäldegalerie - Old Master Paintings.
Neues Museums is currently closed for renovation work and the reopening is due in Autumn 2009.
Museumsinsel, Mitte. All museums open: Tue-Sun 10h00-18h00 (until 22h00 Thu). Admission: EUR12, adults (valid for entry into all museums on Museumsinsel for one day); free for children. Tel: +49 (0)30-266-3666.
BERLIN TV TOWER
As the name suggests, Museumsinsel is quite literally an island in the River Spree that is home to some of Berlin's foremost museums, and hence an ideal spot to start a cultural tour of the city. This collection of museums have also been designated as a site of UNESCO World Heritage in 1999.
The best loved of the institutions here is the Pergamon Museum (Am Kupfergraben), an enormous collection of predominantly Classical and Islamic antiquities, its centrepiece the impressive Pergamon Altar, a hefty marble frieze of Greek mythological scenes dating from the 2nd century BC.
Just behind the Pergamon, the Old National Gallery, or Alte Nationalgalerie (Bodestrasse), is well worth visiting if you're a fan of 19th-century art. Spanning the entire century, the large body of works between them represent most of the main German art movements of the period, as well as a number of French Impressionists.
The other institution currently open in the complex is the Altes Museum (Lustgarten, next to the cathedral), home to some fine examples of Roman and Greek statuary and an impressive collection of Etruscan art behind its stately - and somewhat intimidating - 19th-century façade.
The Bode reopened in 2006 after major renovation works, displaying Germany's largest collection of sculptures dating from the Middle Ages and later, Numismatic Collection (coin series dating from 7th century BC to coins and medals of the 21st century) and works from the Gemäldegalerie - Old Master Paintings.
Neues Museums is currently closed for renovation work and the reopening is due in Autumn 2009.
Museumsinsel, Mitte. All museums open: Tue-Sun 10h00-18h00 (until 22h00 Thu). Admission: EUR12, adults (valid for entry into all museums on Museumsinsel for one day); free for children. Tel: +49 (0)30-266-3666.
TIERGARTEN
The sublime Tiergarten cuts a huge, green swathe through the centre of Berlin, its tree-shaded walks, secluded copses and picturesque gardens providing the perfect venue for an afternoon's relaxation. Dissected by canals and the Neuer See lake, the park has become a renowned venue for naked sunbathing in summer (not compulsory, or widespread) though probably of more universal appeal are the beer gardens that heave with locals and tourists at the weekends.
In the middle of the park is the Siegessäule, the Victory Column commemorating German defeat of Denmark, Austria and France in the 1860s and 70s. It's worth climbing the 70 metres up to the feet of the golden angel at the top of the column, which Wim Wenders fans may recognise as the perching place for the angels in the film "Wings of Desire". Open: Mon-Fri 09h30-18h30 (winter); 09h30-19h00 (summer). Admission: EUR2.20, adults; EUR1.50, children.
The Tiergarten is also home to the Berlin zoo as well as the Haus der Kulturen der Welt arts venue.
CHARLOTTENBURG
Built as a summer residence by Frederick III in the 1690s for his wife Sophie Charlotte, and extended after he became the first Prussian king, Schloss Charlottenburg is easily the most opulent building in Berlin. Badly damaged during the war, the palace has been meticulously restored, its lavish interior a reminder of the extravagance of the Prussian Crown. Behind the palace, the extensive grounds, areas of which are laid out as formal gardens, are well worth a couple of hours' exploration.
Within the Charlottenburg complex there are a number of museums and galleries, including the Museum of Pre- and Early History, and the excellent Berggruen Collection (Schlossstrasse 1), which houses a large body of works by Picasso, Klee and Matisse.
Schloss Charlottenburg, Spandauer Damm, Charlottenburg. Palace open: Tue-Fri 09h00-17h00; Sat/Sun 10h00-17h00. Admission: EUR10, adults; EUR7, children. Tel: +49 (0)30-320-91440. Museum opening times and admission fees vary.
EAST SIDE GALLERY
Most of the notorious Berlin Wall erected in 1961 is now gone, but the East Side Gallery remains as a potent reminder of the dark days when civilians were shot as they tried to cross "Die Mauer" to the West. This 1.3km-long remnant of the wall is covered with inspiring and thought-provoking images infused with the great sense of optimism that prevailed at the time the wall came down. After emerging as a symbol of hope in the early post-wall years the faded state of some of the paintings is symbolic of how much Berlin has changed since November 1989: the pictures were rapidly disappearing although an extensive renovation programme has reinvigorated a large section of this concrete canvas. Located at Mühlenstrasse between Warschauer Strasse and Ostbahnhof stations in the east of the city.
In the summer, the riverside immediately behind the wall is transformed into two sandy beaches onto which the youth of Berlin descend to lounge in deckchairs and sip on cold beers and cocktails. With several clubs in the vicinity, this has become a popular post-party relaxation spot, though it's sufficiently enticing as a destination in its own right.
THE BRANDENBURG GATE
The grand Brandenburg Gate was the setting for some of the most stunning scenes of the 1989 revolution when it was opened as a symbol of the new united city. It had lain in no-man's land between East and West since the Berlin Wall was first erected in 1961.
Before that the gate had been used as a centrepiece for triumphant processions by Napoleon and Hitler. Now it is a symbol of the new Germany and a spectacular monument to peaceful unity rather than discord.
Pariser Platz. Unter den Linden/Strasse des 17 Juni.
THE JEWISH MUSEUM
The Jewish Museum is best known for the spectacular building it inhabits, designed by Daniel Libeskind in 1999. Based on the idea of a disassembled star and featuring zinc panels spliced with slits for windows, the edifice is a stark and chilling reminder of the troubled history of German Jews.
The interior is equally symbolic and innovative, its long corridors representing themes of continuity, exile and the Holocaust. A walk through the museum takes you through the entire history of Judaism in Germany, from the time of the Crusades, through the Middle Ages, right up to the 20th century and the present day. A mixture of interactive displays and historical artefacts bring to life various aspects of Jewish culture though the ages - a fascinating collection not to be missed.
Lindenstrasse 13, Kreuzberg. Open: daily 10h00-20h00 (until 22h00 Mon). Admission: EUR5, adults; free for children. Tel: +49 (0)30-259-93-300
NEW NATIONAL GALLERY
Arguably Berlin's most elegant modern building, Mies van der Rohe's New National Gallery (Neue Nationalgalerie) is the embodiment of Modernism with its clean lines and stark simplicity. The design was originally intended for the Bacardi headquarters in Cuba but when this project failed to transpire, it was adapted to suit the needs of a new Berlin art gallery, built in 1968. The observant will notice that the façade resembles a stripped-down version of the Old National Gallery, the stone columns replaced by metal girders, the whole structure floating on a large stone plinth.
The gallery houses modern art from the 20th century, with a sizeable collection of works by the Expressionists, particularly Die Brücke group, Surrealists such as Dali and Miró, and leaders of the Bauhaus Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky.
Just next door, the Kulturforum incorporates several cultural institutions, most notably the Gemäldegalerie, which houses an excellent collection of Old Masters and Classical artworks.
Potsdamer Strasse 50, Tiergarten. Open: Tue-Fri 10h00-18h00 (until 22h00 Thu); Sat-Sun 11h00-18h00. Admission: EUR8, adults; EUR4, children. Tel: +49 (0)30-266-2651.
BERLIN CATHEDRAL
Presiding over the eastern end of Unter den Linden, the city's famous thoroughfare, the cathedral (Berliner Dom) has been almost entirely rebuilt after being virtually destroyed during the war. Contrary to appearances, the modern reincarnation is actually a pared-down version of the original 19th-century building, an extravagant tribute to the Italian High Renaissance. The stately façade gives way to a bright and airy interior of white marble with flourishes of gold and gilt at every turn, a parade of austere-looking statues peering down on worshippers from the inner circle of the gigantic dome.
If possible, try to time your visit to coincide with an organ recital, when strains of the likes of Bach and Brahms boom around the ornate interior, adding to the air of grandeur of this already imposing edifice. It's also worth climbing up to the dome where you'll be rewarded with an aerial view both of the interior of the cathedral and the rest of Berlin.
Am Lustgarten, Mitte. Open: Mon-Sat 09h00-20h00 (last entrance 19h00), Sun 12h00-20h00 (summer); Mon-Sat 09h00-19h00, Sun 12h00-19h00 (winter). Admission: EUR5, adults; free for children. Organ recitals: Tue 20h00; Thu 15h00, 19h00 (May-Aug). Tel: +49 (0)30-202-690.
NEW SYNAGOGUE
A potent reminder of Berlin's once large Jewish population is the New Synagogue (Neue Synagoge), which was built in 1866. Ironically the building survived the 1938 pogrom and the devastation of the infamous Kristallnacht only to suffer serious bomb damage at the hands of the Allies in 1943. A painstaking renovation has now brought the synagogue and its Moorish dome back to its former glory.
The synagogue also houses a Jewish Centre with a permanent exhibition on the history of the building and of Jewish life in Berlin, along with a series of temporary exhibits related to Jewish people and culture.
Oranienburger Strasse 28-30, Mitte. Open: Sun-Mon 10h00-20h00, Tue-Thu 10h00-18h00, Fri 10h00-17h00 (May-Aug); Sun-Thu 10h00-18h00, Fri 10h00-14h00 (Sep-Apr). Dome open Apr-Sep. Admission: EUR3, adults; EUR2, children. Tel: +49 (0)30-8802-8300.
WANNSEA VILLA
The villa at Wannsee is a chilling reminder of the dark days of Nazi rule. It was at this pleasant lakeside villa in 1942 that leading Nazis and German industrialists sat down to work out "the Jewish question". With views of the peaceful lake outside the window, Hitler proposed his euphemistic "Final Solution" of genocide.
The villa is now a museum that documents this grim meeting that changed the face of Europe forever, and remains a poignant memorial to the victims of the Nazi atrocities that ensued as a result.
Am Grossen Wannsee 56-58. Open: daily 10h00-18h00. Admission: free. Tel: +49 (0)30-805-0010.
GETTING AROUND
Schönefeld
The main entry point for international flights to Berlin, Schönefeld airport lies 20km south-east of the city centre. There is an S-Bahn station serving the airport and trains run regularly to the city throughout the day. The dedicated airport express service runs every few minutes and costs EUR2.80, taking around 30 minutes to the Hauptbahnhof, the new main central station. Expect to pay EUR23 for the half-hour taxi ride to the city centre.
Tegel
The best way to get in from Tegel is to take bus TXL, which stops at various points in the city centre, including the Hauptbahnhof (20 mins). The bus ticket costs EUR2.10. Taxis cost approximately EUR18 from Tegel.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Berlin has a vast and fairly efficient public transport system with the main focus on the sprawling U- and S-Bahn rail networks. There is also a bus network, though given the city's size the urban train networks are usually the best option.
The Berlin Welcome Card offers unlimited travel on the city's network of buses and trains for a three-day period, as well as substantial discounts on the majority of Berlin's main attractions. It costs EUR24.50 and is valid for one adult and up to three children under 14. The card is available from all S-Bahn offices and tourist info offices. Alternatively, a seven-day travel card is available for individuals for zones A and B costing EUR26.20.
Trains
Usually U-Bahn trains stay underground and S-Bahn trains rattle overground, but this rule is broken many times on Berlin's network. The U-Bahn and the S-Bahn are accessible with a EUR2.50 travel ticket that is valid in two connecting zones for a period of two hours. A ticket for three zones, which is as much as most visitors will ever need, costs EUR2.80. Day Passes (EUR6.10 for two zones and EUR6.50 for three zones - valid until 03h00 hours the following day) are useful for travellers intending to travel several times in a day. There is also a more limited network of trams in East Berlin. The surburban train network is of little use to tourists.
Buses
The bus system in Berlin is fairly comprehensive, but unusually for Germany, can be slow and sometimes not very punctual. Individual tickets can be purchased on Berlin buses, but U- and S-Bahn travel tickets are also valid for bus travel. The most useful aspect of the network is that it offers night buses, on which standard tickets are applicable.
Public bus number 110 is one of the most useful for tourists, providing an unoffical sightseeing trip of the city, starting at the TV Tower, and driving through the Tiergarten, under the Brandenburg Gate, along Unter den Linden and up to Alexanderplatz.
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