Boston
Known as the "Cradle of Liberty", Boston, it is true to say, is where modern America began. New England was the site of the first landing of the Pilgrims, who made their first settlement at Plymouth, located a bare hour south of Boston today. And just over 150 years after the founding fathers set foot on mainland America Boston was throwing a Tea Party, with the British as the unwelcome guests, and a couple of years later the first skirmishes of the War of Independence broke out here, with a notable battle taking place on Bunker Hill to the north-east of the city.
The Freedom Trail connects 16 of the city's most famous revolutionary sites, including the house of Paul Revere, made famous in ballad and poem for his daring midnight dash to warn of the impending British invasion (take time to pity his companion William Dawes, whose name just didn't scan sufficiently for Longfellow to pen an ode to his bravery as well). Faneuil Hall where fiery revolutionary orators such as Samuel Adams stirred the coals of insurrection and "Ol' Ironsides", the USS Constitution are other must-sees on the trail, as it traces the timeline to independence.
It's a strange thing though, that for all Boston was where the American nation began to shake off its colonial shackles if anything it is quite European in its attitude and outlook and has always been one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the US. Home to the nation's most respected university in Harvard, its population is erudite and bohemian in outlook, rather than sharing the strait laced views of their forefathers. Indeed today's crop of students represents one in ten of every Boston inhabitant, which keeps the atmosphere young and vibrant. Try coming on St Patrick's Day when the city's large Irish (and Irish at heart) population parties all over the city - it is hard to believe that this is the liberty that Samuel Adams and his ilk envisaged, but nobody seems to be complaining.
The surrounding countryside of New England and the coastal resorts of Cape Cod and the island of Martha's Vineyard are breathtakingly beautiful. North of the city meanwhile you'll find Salem, home to the famous 17th-century witch trials and later Nathaniel Hawthorne, one of the father's of American literature. Concord likewise is famous for its literary alumni, including Ralph Waldo Emerson and the reclusive writer Henry David Thoreau who lived in a cabin at Walden Pond, recreating a pastoral idyll of America (albeit with the odd sojourn into town for tea with his friends).
No modern introduction to Boston is complete without mentioning the incredibly popular TV show Cheers, and visitors to the city will invariably flock to the Bull and Finch Pub, which was the inspiration for the long-running comedy series. If planning such a homage be prepared - the bar looks nothing like Cheers, and Boston is full of tourists complaining about it. But forewarned is forearmed; simply move on - there's a lot more going on in this city to be worried about such a small thing, and anyway there's another Cheers bar at Faneuil Hall, just like the one on TV.
THE FREEDOM TRAIL
Beginning at the Boston Common information booth and concluding at the 200-year-old USS Constitution warship (Tel: +1 (1)617-426-1812) and the Bunker Hill Monument (Tel: +1 (1)617-242-5641) the trail takes in 16 sites noted for their role in the US's "journey towards freedom" in the 1700s.
Intervening sights include the Old State House and the Old North Church at 193 Salem Street. You can visit both when open, and services are still held in the church. Apart from when there are special events or exhibitions, all Freedom Trail sites are free to enter, and you can easily guide yourself using a pocketbook guide.
National Park Service Rangers give free guided tours along the trail from May-Sep, Tel: +1 (1)617-242-5642. The Freedom Trail Foundation offers general information and leads tours by colonial-era-costumed characters, cost: USD12, adults; USD6, children. Tel: +1 (1)617-357-8300.
BOSTON COMMON
America's first public park, some 50 acres of it, has been retained as a recreational ground for the people of Boston. Up until 1830, the history books will tell you, the common was still used for grazing cattle and 55 years prior to that this was the site of the British army encampment prior to the outbreak of the American Revolution.
Nowadays the only occupying force is families picnicking or playing on the vast swathes of grassland. In summer the park offers free outdoor theatre, tennis courts, children's wading pool, and paved paths for walking. Through winter skating doesn't get more scenic than on the Frog Pond public rink here, in view of the gold-domed State House.
Park St and Tremont. Admission: free, but certain activities carry a charge. Tel: +1 (1)617-635-2120.
FANEUIL HALL MARKET
Boston's marketplace for two and a half centuries Faneuil Hall and Market has been at the centre of everything that's gone on in the city in modern times. Revolutionary orators such as Samuel Adams spoke here, inspiring the independence movement that eventually saw the British repelled from the US.
Although the second floor is still used for debates by the local government, nowadays the whole complex has been much modernised and the experience of Faneuil today is half shopping experience and half entertainment. The cobblestoned pedestrian walks attract jugglers, musicians, and other entertainers, while street barrows offer passers-by a range of arts, crafts and souvenir items. The adjoining marketplace, Quincy Market, once the place to purchase live animals for food now houses an international food court plus upscale shops, bars, and restaurants.
Park Rangers offer historic talks daily, 09h00-17h00. Tel: +1 (1)617-523-1300.
HARBOR ISLAND NATIONAL PARK
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ESPLANADE
The Esplanade is a long, grassy park meandering along the scenic Charles River within walking distance of Beacon Hill and Boston Public Garden.
Free entertainment is offered regularly at the open-air Hatch Shell during warm weather, including the Boston Globe Jazz Festival, "oldies," rock, and symphony concerts, dance programs, and ethnic festivals. It's the perfect place to bike, roller skate, toss a frisbee, enjoy a free performance, or just watch the boats sail by.
For the schedule call the Mayor's Office of Special Events, Tel: +1 (1)617-635-3911.
HARVARD UNIVERSITY
New England is known for its fine educational institutions and Harvard College is the one that started it all. "Harvard Square" isn't really a square at all. Instead it refers to the vibrant neighbourhood of coffeehouses, shops, restaurants, movies, street entertainers, and general buzz of activity surrounding the Harvard campus.
Walking among the ivy-covered red brick buildings is an extremely pleasant way to spend a couple of hours. If you've time it's well worth visiting the college's museums including the Sackler Art Museum (32 Quincy St. Tel: +1(1)617-495-9400) and the Museum of Natural History (26 Oxford St. Tel: +1 (1)617-495-3045), with its extensive range of specimens.
Cambridge. Major streets to explore include Brattle, John F Kennedy, and Massachussets Ave.
Boston's massive Museum of Fine Arts is housed in a splendid period building. Inside, the high-ceilinged galleries contain literally thousands of paintings, sculptures and miscellaneous objet d'art. The collection is largely made up of objects bequeathed to the museum by Boston's wealthy citizens of the last 130 years.
Permanent galleries dedicated to African, European and Ancient art include such notable items as the largest collection of Monets found outside Paris. There is a permanent programme of special exhibitions and events to support the museum's ongoing growth as a world class artisic venue.
465 Huntington Ave. Open: daily 10h00-16h45 (until 21h45 Wed-Fri). Admission: USD15 adults; USD6.50, children. Tel: +1 (1)617-267-9300
MUSEUM OF FINE ART
Boston's massive Museum of Fine Arts is housed in a splendid period building. Inside, the high-ceilinged galleries contain literally thousands of paintings, sculptures and miscellaneous objet d'art. The collection is largely made up of objects bequeathed to the museum by Boston's wealthy citizens of the last 130 years.
Permanent galleries dedicated to African, European and Ancient art include such notable items as the largest collection of Monets found outside Paris. There is a permanent programme of special exhibitions and events to support the museum's ongoing growth as a world class artisic venue.
465 Huntington Ave. Open: daily 10h00-16h45 (until 21h45 Wed-Fri). Admission: USD15 adults; USD6.50, children. Tel: +1 (1)617-267-9300
ISABELLA STEWART GARDNER MUSEUM
The Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum is housed in a Venetian-style "palace". Its philanthropic creator first threw open its doors in 1903, dedicating the building, courtyard and her private collection of over 2,500 works of art to the "education and enrichment of the public forever".
The items on show read like a who's, who of European and American art. You can visit Rembrandts, Michelangelos, Boticellis, works of John Singer Sargent and Whistler. An archive of writtern material includes correspondence from such notables in the world of literature and art as TS Eliot and Dante. Even without this dazzling array of exhibits the courtyard would be a perfect draw, its secluded ambience creating an air of perfumed refinement.
A full programme of extra events augments the collection, with the courtyard being an ideal venue for classical music recitals or informative lectures on the arts and architecture.
280 the Fenway. Open: Tue-Sun 11h00-17h00. Admission: USD12. Tel: +1 (1)617-566-1401.
ARNOLD ARBORETUM & BOSTON PUBLIC GARDEN
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