Dublin
Of late Dublin has gained a reputation for being a party town where the Guinness never stops flowing. Visit at the weekend and you can well believe it as hordes of happy revellers descend on the city's Temple Bar district, often via ferry from mainland UK, eager to sample the "craic".
But to talk of Dublin as if its sole draw is the offer of a huge night out is to misunderstand the city. Although these elements are undoubtedly part of the experience, the Dublin "craic" is doing as much or as little as you enjoy. Party until late in the night, or absorb endless examples of art and one of the most changeable histories of any country in Europe - Dublin is one of the most interesting small cities in the world.
The history, the charming Georgian architecture and the host of more earthy entertainment on offer will all entice you to the place, but it is the people that will leave the biggest impression on you. Elsewhere in Ireland they'll tell you everyone in Dublin is in a hurry, but that reflects on how amazingly slow life is throughout the country. A more laid back approach to life can't exist in any capital in the world, and it is highly contagious.
A nation populated with storytellers, almost every Dubliner will offer a suggestion on where to go or extra information on where you've been - so much so that you may find you spend more time talking than you do sightseeing. Befriend the right man in one of Dublin's traditional watering holes and you'll find an hour's entertainment for the price of a pint of Guinness - a cliché that, for once, is true.
But even if the only piece of Dublin you see is the inside of one of the city's marvellous pubs it'll be enough to make you instantly love the place, and like the ghost of Molly Malone, you can't help but leave something of your spirit among its streets.
SIGHT SEEING
CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL
This splendid cathedral is the main place of worship for the Protestant Church of Ireland, although visitors from all denominations will be attracted to Christ Church by its other claim to fame as the oldest building in Ireland.
The structure was originally built in 1038, although the present church dates back "only" as far as 1240.
Christchurch Place, Dublin 8. Open: daily 09h45-17h00 (Sep-May); 09h00-18h00 (Jun-Aug). Admission: EUR6, adults; free for children. Tel: +353 (0)1-677-8099.
TRINITY COLLEGE
In the Long Room of the library at Trinity College Dublin is kept the world's most beautiful illuminated manuscript surviving from the Dark Ages. The Book of Kells, written on vellum in about 800AD, contains the four gospels, commentary and images from the New Testament.
If you visit during the college term it's easy to get a student to give you a guided tour of the college and library.
College St, Dublin 2. Open: Mon-Sat 09h30-17h00; Sun 09h30-16h30 (12h00-16h30 Oct-May). Admission to the Old Library and Book of Kells: EUR9, adults; children under 12yrs go free. Tel: +353 (0)1-608-2320.
IRISH MUSEUM OF MODERN ART
Located within an impressive 17th-century building surrounded by expansive grounds, the Irish Museum of Modern Art is one of Ireland's foremost institutions of modern and contemporary works. The museum's permanent collection hosts installations, sculpture, photography and paintings by some of Ireland's leading artists, as well as presenting a wide range of works by big international names such as Gilbert and George, Anish Kapoor and Damien Hirst. Regularly changing temporary exhibitions bring new and lesser-known artists to the collection.
Royal Hospital, Militart Rd, Kilmainham. Open: Tue-Sat 10h00-17h30; Sun 12h00-17h30. Guided Tours of the exhibitions are available every Wed/Fri/Sun at 14h30. Admission: free. Tel: +353 (0)1-612-9900.
THE WRITERS MUSEUM
In its impressive 18th-century surroundings at the end of O'Connell Street, the Dublin Writers Museum traces the history of Dublin's literary heritage over the last 300 years. The exhibition includes collections of books, letters and personal effects relating to such eminent figures as SwiftYeats, Wilde and, of course, James Joyce, who, for many is the embodiment of Dublin's literary wealth. A commentary via headsets as you're wandering around the museum provides an interesting and informative background to the articles on display. 18 Parnell Square, Dublin 1. Open: Mon-Sat 10h00-17h00; Sun 11h00-17h00 (Mon-Fri until 18h00 Jun-Aug). Admission: EUR7.25, adults; EUR4.55, children. Tel: +353 (0)1-872-2077.
Joyce fans will almost certainly also find it worthwhile to make the short excursion out to the James Joyce Museum. Located 12km south of Dublin along the coastal road stands the James Joyce Tower, which now houses the museum dedicated to his life's work, and was the setting for the first chapter of his most famous work Ulysses. Open: Mon-Sat 10h00-13h00 & 14h00-17h00; Sun 14h00-18h00. (Mar-Oct). All other times of the year by appointment only. Admission: EUR7.25, adults; EUR4.55, children. Tel: +353 (0)1-280-9265.
DUBLIN CASTLE
Right in the middle of the city, south of the Liffey, stands the 12th-century castle that has defined and defended the city of Dublin throughout its history.
Only one tower remains from the original construction but within the castle complex you can see later buildings including the Royal Chapel, restored in 1989, the Portrait Gallery and the State Apartments. Note that the Castle is not just a tourist attraction; some parts are still used for State functions and may close to visitors occasionally.
Dame St, Dublin 2. Open: Mon-Fri 10h00-16h45, Sat-Sun 14h00-17h00. Admission: EUR4.50, adults; EUR2, children. Tel: +353 (0)1-677-7129
GUINNESS STOREHOUSE
Next door to the famous Guinness brewery at St James's Gate, the Storehouse is the official tourist attraction and chief pilgrimage site for lovers of the world's favourite Irish stout.
Next door to the famous Guinness brewery at St James's Gate, the Storehouse is the official tourist attraction and chief pilgrimage site for lovers of the world's favourite Irish stout.
The Visitor Experience reveals the many processes and ingredients that go into creating the perfect pint. The tour includes the "Arthur Guinness Story" exhibition and the cooperage museum, and even leaves time to sample the "official" best pint of Guinness (complimentary) on the planet in the Gravity Bar afterwards while taking in magnificent views of the city. True fans of the brew will be sorely tested by the alluring array of merchandise in the shop afterwards.
St James's Gate, Dublin 8. Open: daily 09h30-17h00 (until 19h00 Jul-Aug). Admission: EUR15, adults; EUR5, children; EUR34 family ticket (includes 2 adults & 2 children). Tel: +353 (0)1-408-4800.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM
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KILMAINHAM GAOL
The Kilmainham Gaol was opened in 1796, shortly after Ireland became a part of the United Kingdom, and closed in 1924, shortly before it once again became independent.
The gaol played a central role in much of Ireland's modern history, and was the scene of the incarceration - and execution - of many of the leaders of the 1916 uprising. It remains a powerful symbol of Ireland's struggle to win freedom from the British.
Inchicore Rd, Kilmainham, Dublin 8. Open: Mon-Sat 09h30-16h00, Sun 10h00-17h00. Admission: EUR5.30, adults; EUR2.10, children. Tel: +353 (0)1-453-5984.
PHEONIX PARK
Lying just outside Dublin city centre is the verdant expanse of Phoenix Park. At over 1,700 acres it is the largest enclosed urban park in Europe.
The park grounds include sports pitches, a zoo, formal gardens, the President's official residence and acres of wide open space. It also has an important role as a bird sanctuary and reserve for native flora. Reached via the number 10 bus from O'Connell St.
The Phoenix Park visitors centre is open daily, 10h00-18h00 (Mid Mar-Sep); daily 10h00-17h30 October; Sat-Wed 10h00-18h00 (Nov-Mid Mar). Admission: free. Tel: +353 (0)1-677-0095.
THE POWERSCOURT ESTATE
Just outside Dublin, near Enniskerry Village, is situated one of the most beautiful mansions and estates in Ireland, Powerscourt. It has been wonderfully kept for the last 300 years or so, and the grounds are magnificent. Attractions on offer include a massive 45 acres of formal gardens, a 400-foot waterfall and exhibitions in the mansion itself.
Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow. Open: daily 09h30-17h30. (The waterfall is open 09h30-19h00). Admission to gardens: EUR8, adults; EUR5, children. House & Exhibition: free. Waterfall: adults, EUR5; children, EUR3.50. Tel: +353 (0)1-204-6000
GLENMACNESS WATERFALL
A few miles up from Laragh is the Glenmacnass Waterfall. It's not as visually dramatic as Powerscourt but you're far more likely to be on your own here and left in peace to appreciate the simple beauty of the falls.
Picnic at the head of the waterfall, with a superb view of the valley stretching away into Ireland's continual green, or make your way carefully down to the foot of the falls where you can appreciate the natural splendour in solitude.
GETTING ABOUT
Dublin International Airport
Dublin airport is located 10km north of the city, and is well served by public bus links.
Buses
There is a private 24-hours bus link every 15 minutes called the Aircoach, which serves most major destinations in the centre of the city, with the stops arranged to be near most of the city centre hotels. Tickets cost EUR7 for adults; EUR1.50, children. Tel: +353 (0)1-844-7118 for specific details. With the Dublin Pass you qualify for free transport from Dublin Airport to the city centre. You just have to validate your Dublin Pass at the Aircoach stop outstide Dublin Airport before boarding the bus.
Dublin Bus also runs several routes to and from the airport. All leave from the arrivals road outside the airport terminal. Airlink is a dedicated airport express service that runs to the city centre every ten minutes and costs EUR6 (a discount applies for Aer Lingus passengers and children). The journey should take approximately 35 minutes. Public bus routes that visit the airport are routes 16A, 41, 41b, 748 and 747. These services cost EUR2 but can take substantially longer than the Airlink. Tel: +353 (0)1-872-0000.
Taxis
Taxis are easily available outside the airport, and the trip either way will cost roughly EUR30 (taxis are all metered). A cab ride to the city centre should take approximately 20-25 minutes.
Cars
Alternatively, you may wish to hire a car immediately on arrival at the airport. Dublin centre has the same problems of congestion that you find in other major cities throughout Europe but you should have little difficulty driving into the city's outskirts.
Dublin's public transport network is well thought out and modern. Tourists staying in the city centre will find that there is little need for public transport, with most sights within easy walking distance of each other.
The Dublin Pass provides unlimited travel on Dublin's buses and free travel from Dublin airport to the city centre with Aircoach as well as free access to most of the main tourist attractions. Passes are available for one, two, three, and six days and can be purchased at any of the tourist offices within the city. Rates are: |
Bus
There is an extensive network of bus routes throughout Dublin, mainly along the arterial routes into and out of the city centre. The central station is located on Store St.
Buses are regular and plentiful and it should be no problem getting to and around the relatively small city centre by bus. However, it can be a bit of a mission finding the right bus for specific locations in the suburbs. If you need information, Tel: +353 (0)1-873-4222.
Single ride fares depend on the distance covered, but start at EUR2 for adults. A daily ticket is available on the bus (EUR6) that allows unlimited travel on the network. The ticket must be validated each time you board a bus. Tickets can be bought at the Dublin bus office on O'Connell Street and at most newsagents and Spar stores.
Train
Within Dublin there are two main types of train service, the DART and the Iarnród Éirann (Irish rail) suburban service. The DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) consists of a single line going along the coast as far as Howth in the north and Bray to the south. There are three stations within Dublin itself: Pearse, Connolly and Tara Street.
The other local rail services form a larger network throughout the city and the suburbs. Tickets can be obtained at most stations and should be bought before you travel where possible. There are a number of cheaper period and combination tickets too. For the visitor, the most useful is the one-day rail and bus ticket, costing EUR7. For information, Tel: +353 (0)1-703-3504.
Tram
Although arguably rather less useful for getting to the main tourist attractions than the bus, the tram is an enjoyable way of getting around Dublin if nothing else. There are two lines of the Luas Tram, the green line stretching from Sandyford to St Stephen's Green, and the red from Tallaght to Connolly, the latter being the more useful as it runs through the centre of the city.
Trams run Mon-Fri 05h30-00h30; Sat 06h30-00h30; and Sun 07h00-23h30 every 7-10mins at peak times and every 20mins the rest of the time. Tickets cost EUR1.55 (single, valid for 90 mins/ one stop only) or EUR2.80 (return). Alternatively tickets with unlimited travel for one day cost EUR5 (EUR18 for seven days). It is also possible to purchase a combined bus and tram ticket, which costs EUR6.80 for one day or EUR26 for seven days.
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