Edinburgh
It's no lie to say that Edinburgh is everyone's favourite city in the British Isles. The capital of Scotland, Edinburgh is cultured, attractive and charming.
Edinburgh is best-known for two huge annual events. If you like a party and don't mind crowds, come for New Year - Hogmanay to the Scots. More than 100,000 people pack the city centre for a four-day celebration that is one of the most spectacular New Year parties in the world.
The second busy season is in August and September when the Edinburgh Festival and Edinburgh Fringe turn the city into a cultural paradise, and temporarily triple the population. The Edinburgh Festival concentrates on high culture - classical music, opera and drama. The Fringe is far more anarchic and deals with comedy, popular music and experimental theatre.
Although these are undoubtedly the annual highlights, there is plenty to see and do whenever you visit "Auld Reekie", as the residents affectionately refer to the city. Edinburgh Castle, the Palace of Holyroodhouse and the Royal Mile are all world class attractions.
Edinburgh itself is breathtakingly beautiful, on multiple levels with storeyed buildings in brooding grey granite. Meanwhile, south of the city centre Arthur's Seat raises its distinctive bulk, and just outside the city limits you have the natural attractions of the Pentland hills, real Scottish moorland.
Among this you have the culture that comes with Edinburgh's capital status; eclectic bars, fine dining, and national art collections and museums can be found all over the city. The vast student population keeps the atmosphere upbeat and vibrant and even the downpours that periodically soak the city don't dampen Edinburgh's enthusiasm for entertainment.
SIGHT SEEING
The highlight of any stay in "Auld Reekie" is the city itself - replete with craggy castles and outstanding art, Edinburgh never fails to please and fascinate its visitors.
For free admission to 27 attractions, complimentary airport transfer and transport within the city, and special offers at restaurants, shops and activities, consider buying a 1, 2 or 3 Day Edinburgh Pass. The card can be bought at tourist information centres and on the Edinburgh Pass website. For more details, Tel: +44 (0)150-683-2121. The card costs: |
ROYAL MILE
Straddling the volcanic ridge that runs from Edinburgh Castle, at the top, to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, at the foot, is the cobblestoned Royal Mile. It is actually made up of four separate streets that seamlessly run into each other - Castle Hill, the Lawnmarket, High Street and the Canongate, but few people differentiate between them nowadays.
Walking the full length of the Mile is an essential Edinburgh experience. It is one of Europe's most fascinating thoroughfares, lined with shops, pubs, restaurants and many historical buildings including Edinburgh's High Kirk and political buildings. Fanning off the Royal Mile are dozens of narrow lanes that lead to small courts and steps down to the Cowgate and the Grassmarket.
EDINBURGH CASTLE
On a volcanic crag at the top of the Royal Mile, 12th-century Edinburgh Castle dominates the whole city. It is one of the UK's most distinctive sites, and one of the first things you see as you enter Edinburgh by rail from the south. The castle's courtyard is also the site of the world-famous Edinburgh Tattoo each year.
Among the highlights of a visit are St Margaret's Chapel (the oldest part of the castle) and the palace, once a royal residence, and today a museum containing the Honours - the Scottish equivalent of the crown jewels. The Honours were recently joined by the return of the block of sandstone known as the Stone of Destiny (or Stone of Scone) upon which Scotland's kings through history were crowned. Edward I stole the stone 700 years ago to quell the "turbulent Scots" and installed it at Westminster. Some legends say that the monks of Scone tricked the king and substituted a plain piece of local sandstone for the true stone, which is now lost.
Castle Hill. Open: daily 09h30-18h00 (Apr-Sept); 09h30-17h00 (Oct-Mar). Admission: GBP10, adults; GBP5, children. Tel: +44 (0)131-225-9846.
NATIONAL GALLERY OF SCOTLAND
Located on The Mound, just off Princes Street, the National Gallery houses Scotland's national art collection. Its rather gaudy red interior is a shock - as are the tartan trousers sported by the staff.
On show are seminal works by artists such as Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt and Cezanne, as well as pieces by Scottish artists such as John Singer Sargent and Frederic Edwin Church. Although the paintings are the main draw there are also several interesting sculptures and artefacts in the gallery.
The Mound. Open: daily 10h00-17h00; (until 19h00 Thu). Admission to permanent collection: free. Tel: +44 (0)131-624-6200
ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA
For 44 years the Royal Yacht Britannia operated as the official vessel for the British Royal Family, sailing all over the world. Following decommissioning Britannia has been berthed permanently at Leith and now serves as a floating museum. As well as the sumptuous Royal Apartments, visitors can see the inner workings of the ship and the crew's quarters, which retain much of their original 1950s fixtures and fittings.
Ocean Terminal, Leith. Open: daily 09h30-16h30 (Apr-Sep); 10h00-15h30 (Oct-Mar). Admission: GBP9.75, adults; GBP5.75, children; GBP27.75, family pass (2 adults & 3 children). Tel: +44 (0)131-555-5566.
PALACE OF HOLLYROODHOUSE
The Queen's official Scottish home has been a royal residence for more than 700 years.
Highlights of a tour include the State Apartments, the Great Gallery and the Historical Apartments, chiefly of note for their connections with Mary, Queen of Scots. In the palace grounds are the ruins of 12th-century Holyrood Abbey. In summer, the very pleasant gardens are also open to the public. It's advisable to check that the palace is open before visiting as it closes for special events several times a year.
Canongate, at the Eastern end of the Royal Mile (towards Arthur's Seat). Open: daily 09h30-18h00 (Apr-Oct); 09h30-16h30 (Nov-Mar). Admission: GBP13, adults; EUR7.50, children. Tel: +44 (0)131-556-5100.
MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND
This brilliantly designed new museum was opened in 1998 as an addition to the grand Victorian-style Royal Museum next door (also worth a look if you have time).
The Museum of Scotland traces the history of Scotland from prehistoric times through to the modern era. Treasures include the silver and amber Hunterston brooch from AD800, 12th-century carved Lewis chesspieces and various Roman antiquities. The industrial section includes the steam locomotive Ellesmere, built in nearby Leith in 1861. The Discovery Centre is a hands-on exhibition especially designed for 11-14 year olds.
Chambers St. Open: daily 10h00-17h00. Admission to permanent exhibitions: free. Tel: +44 (0)131-247-4422.
ARTHUR'S SEAT
A 250-metre high extinct volcano, Arthur's Seat dominates the southern end of the city and is a great place for a bracing walk or a summer picnic.
Nobody knows where the name comes from, though some have linked it with the legendary King Arthur. The walk up is rewarded with spectacular views across the city and over to the Pentland Hills beyond.
The path up from Dunsapie is an easy climb.
THE HIGH KIRK OF ST GILES
Crowned by a distinctive 15th-century tower and spire and often simply known as St Giles Cathedral, this was Edinburgh's parish church, from which the fiery John Knox launched the Scottish reformation in 1559.
Later in the High Kirk's history, excitable Edinburgh housewives upheld Knox's principles by slinging their prayer stools at the Bishop of Scotland when Charles I sought to bring the Scots back under the Catholic banner with his new prayer book. Tough crowd...
Situated on the Royal Mile. Open: Mon-Sat 09h00-17h00; Sun 13h00-17h00 (late opening Mayr-Sep until 19h00 Mon-Fri). Admission: voluntary donation. Tel: +44 (0)131-225-9442.
SCOTCH WHISKEY HERITAGE CENTRE
Not too far from St Giles's is a temple to Scotland's alternative religion - whisky.
Here you can trace the 1,000-year history and development of the Gaelic "Water of Life". In the centre's interactive experience visitors are whisked off on a train past tableaux with lifelike models, sounds and the not always palatable smells of the mash tuns, portraying the development of the whisky industry. Finally, you can interact a little bit more closely with the final product.
354 Castlehill, Royal Mile. Tours run: daily 10h00-17h00
Limited tours still operate at reduced rate.
Tours: Flat rate for adults and chidlren GBP7.50. Tel: +44 (0)131-220-0441.
JOHN KNOX HOUSE
This three-storey building on the Royal Mile dates from the beginning of the 16th century and is believed to be the place where religious reformer John Knox lived.
It includes a museum devoted to Knox's life, which was surprisingly colourful considering his unflinching austerity. Few people realise he served as a galley slave before launching his political career, and indirectly instigating physical assaults on senior members of the clergy - you couldn't make it up.
43-45 High St, midway down the Royal Mile. Open: Mon-Sat 10h00-18h00, Sun 12h00-18h00. Last admission at 17h30. Admission GBP3.50, adults; GBP1, children. Tel: +44 (0)131-556-9579.
CALTON HILL
At the Eastern end of Princes Street, Calton Hill is another volcanic outcrop littered with a striking collection of grand buildings and monuments. These include the Burns Monument, the 1817 Nelson Monument, which you can climb to get great views of the city, and the City Observatory.
The National Monument was intended to replicate the Parthenon in Athens, but the money ran out long before it was finished - so you'll have to settle for the bronze model in the National Gallery instead. Calton Hill is also home to the pagan festival of Beltane.
SHOPPING
mix of jewellers' and national chains. A short mall just before you reach High Street contains smaller shops and provides access to Cockburn Street. Here an eclectic mix of independent shops sells everything from secondhand vinyl records and CDs to freaky club fashions, tattoos and body piercings.
The Royal Mile itself is a mix of tacky shops and specialist stores selling tweeds, tartans, bagpipes and whisky. This is where most tourists will do their souvenir shopping. However, the more independently minded shopper should head off the Royal Mile just before Castle Hill and make for Victoria Street, which winds down to the Grassmarket. This is a haven for fine stores selling antiques, arts and crafts - not always too cheaply it has to be said. Serious antique hunters should head for St Stephen St in Stockbridge and Thistle Street.
Outside of the main tourist area you'll find Edinburgh has a lot to offer the shopper as well. It is one of the few cities in the UK where people still live in the city proper and thus smaller tradesmen have survived in areas such as Tollcross to the west of the main city centre. Tourists generally only visit these areas if staying in them or seeking out some of the more off-beam festival venues, but you'll find restaurants, delicatessens and vintners as well as furniture makers and antique shops in these sub-centres.
Markets
The Edinburgh Farmers Market is held every Saturday at Castle Terrace from 09h00-14h00 and sells a wonderful array of fresh produce including lots of organic meats, fruit and vegetables. The Eating Place is another great place to buy locally produced food and drink, making it the ideal lunch spot. It is held in the same location on the second and last Thursday of the month from 12h00-18h00.
GETTING AROUND
Edinburgh Turnhouse Airport
Edinburgh's Turnhouse Airport is 11km (7 miles) west of the city centre. Tel: +44 (0)870-040-0007.
Buses
The Airlink 100 service runs every 10 minutes from the airport to Waverly Bridges, fares cost GBP3, single and GBP5 return.
Shuttle buses to Waverley Train Station in the city centre cost GBP9 single, GBP9 return. If you can it's worth travelling in a group as you will receive discounted fares. They run approximately every 10-15 minutes between 05h00-22h30. The journey should take about 25 minutes. Tickets can be bought on the bus.
Taxis
A taxi to the city centre will cost you around GBP18 and, depending on traffic, should take around 20 minutes. Try Onward Travel taxi company, Tel: +44 (0)131-272-8222.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Waverley Station, at the Eastern End of Princes Street, could hardly be more central to the city. It is the main terminus for all mainline trains, including GNER trains from London King's Cross and Virgin Trains using the West Coast line.
Trains also run further up the coast to Dundee and Aberdeen, via the distinctive Forth Bridge - an unforgettable feat of engineering. Various services also connect cross-country with Glasgow, some more direct than others and taking between 45mins-1hr30mins to arrive.
You'll find local services of minimum use as most of Edinburgh's attractions are central to the city.
Buses
The main bus terminal for services arriving in Edinburgh from other UK cities is St Andrew's Square at the end of Rose St. The city bus service is generally very good, although the centre of Edinburgh is so small that there is little need to catch a bus anywhere. Buses are probably most useful for getting up and down Princes St, a walk which becomes rapidly tiring when you've done it once or twice. They are also good for getting down into Leith or if you are staying in the suburbs of the city.
Most of the local bus services are run by Lothian Regional Transport, which has offices at 31 Waverley Bridge and 27 Hanover Street. For 24-hour information Tel: +44 (0)131-555-6363.
A weekly city travelpass costs GBP13 and allows unlimited travel. A daily pass costs GBP2.50, adults; GBP2, children. These can be bought on the bus or from the Lothian Regional Transport offices (see above). Single journey fares are available from the bus driver when you board but you need to produce the exact change, and the driver will probably expect you to know what the fare is. If you're going to catch more than one bus in a day it's best to just ask for an all-day ticket - you'll probably save money and will definitely save yourself a lot of bother with small change.
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