Marrakesh
Perhaps no city on earth brings to mind a more exotic image of legend and fantasy. Morocco's spiritual and cultural capital is an enchanting, vibrant place, known under many pseudonyms: The Red City, the City of Blood, or the Pearl of the South to name but a few.
The city is divided into two main parts: the Medina and Ville Nouvelle. Behind the dusky pink walls of the Medina, time seems to have almost stood still, allowing a glimpse into a more traditional Moroccan way of life. In contrast Ville Nouvelle has all the modern amenities and business facilities that you would expect to find in any international city.
Although you can find luxury accommodation and international restaurant chains, much of the city retains the same rich character that it has had since its founding in 1062 by the Berber Yussuf ben Tashufin. The combination of the chaotic beauty of Djemaa el Fna, the abundance of exquisite crafts, the snowy peaks of the High Atlas Mountains away in the distance and the extraordinary friendliness of the Marrakshis leave many feeling breathless upon a visit here.
Sight seeing
Marrakech is a colourful, enchanting city of contrasts, allowing visitors to immerse themselves into the vibrant traditional atmosphere of the Medina, tour the palaces and mosques, take shade in the elegant gardens, and enjoy the modern amenities of Ville Nouvelle.
Djemaa el Fna
There are few places on earth as exotic, or as strange, as Djemaa el Fna (Place of the Dead), the busiest square on the entire African continent, and much of the reason why travellers have been lured to Morocco for centuries. At any time of day there is something beguiling occurring on this public square, where wealthy sultans once beheaded enemies and criminals. Snake charmers, musicians, palm readers, gypsies, bedouins, dentists, men selling dried animal parts for potions, and an endless array of colours mix in a swirling rhythm of energy.
Wander around and soak up the atmosphere, or stop off at one of the stalls to sample harira soup, couscous, tripe, tajine, freshly squeezed orange juice, dried fruits or tea. For a great view and a chance to escape the hustle and bustle try one of the rooftop cafes overlooking the square, where you can relax with a cup of mint tea and enjoy the spectacle.
Koutobia Mosque
Named after a bazaar of booksellers that once stood nearby, the Koutobia Mosque is one of the most stunning pieces of architecture you will find in Morocco. The mosque was constructed in the early 12th century by Almohad Sultan Abdel Moumen, and is topped by three golden orbs, offered, according to legend, by the sultan's mother as penance for missed fasting days during Ramadan. The red brick minaret stands approximately 70m high, and can clearly be seen from all points of the city. If you think the mosque looks vaguely familiar, it may be because it was used as a model for the Hassan Tower in Rabat and the Giralda in Seville.
South of Avenue Mohammed V. Closed to non-Muslims, however, the gardens outside are open to all.
Jardin Majorella
Majorelle botanical garden, owned by French fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent since 1980, is quite stunning and offers a wonderful break from the otherwise dry, dusty cityscape - it is an oasis in the city if ever there was one. The blue hues, lush green plants from five continents, and small lily strewn ponds show a side of Morocco that you shouldn't miss. Designed by the expatriate French artist Jacques Majorelle in 1924, the shade of bold cobalt blue which he used extensively in the garden, and on the studio walls is named after him, Majorelle bleu.
The garden also houses the Islamic Art Museum of Marrakech, whose collection includes North African textiles from Saint-Laurent's personal collection as well as ceramics, jewellery, and paintings by Majorelle. Ave Yacoub el Mansour.
Open: daily 08h00-17h00 (Oct-May); 08h00-18h00 (Jun-Sep). Admission: MAD30, gardens; MAD15, museum. Tel: +212 (0)44-30-1852.
Bahia Palace
The Bahia (meaning "brilliance") Palace was built in the late 19th century by Si Moussa, Grand Vizier of the Sultan, also known as Abu Ahmed, a black slave who rose to power and enormous wealth. With plans to create the most magnificent palace of its time, Ahmed commissioned craftsmen from Fez to design the ornate building for him and his favourites concubines. Blending Moroccan and Islamic styles, the buildings are highly decorative and elaborate - arguably too much so for most modern tastes. A central, two-acre garden is surrounded by rooms intended for his concubines and is one of the highlights of a tour.
Rue Riad Zitoun el Jadid. Open: daily 08h30-11h45 & 14h30-17h30. Admission: MAD15.
Palais Dar Si Said
Built by Sidi Saïd, brother of Vizier Bou Ahmed, this 19th century palace is now the best museum in Marrakech. (Museum of Moroccan Arts). The highly valued collection of Moroccan antique crafts includes jewellery, carpets, leatherwork and pottery from the seaside town of Safi and from Tamegroute, near Zagora. On the ground floor you can find clothes, objects in beaten copper, arms and Berber jewellery. The first floor is detailed in Spanish Moorish decoration and you can also find elegant cedar furniture.
Riad Zitoun el Jedid. Open: Wed-Mon 09h00-11h45 & 14h30-18h00. Admission: MAD20.
Menara Gardens
Containing centuries-old olive groves and palm trees, the country retreat of Menara Gardens is an ideal place to flee the chaos of the city. To this day the original underground canals innovatively irrigate the 30,000 plus olive trees. Replacing older buildings from the 16th century, the current pavilion was rebuilt for Moulay Sulieman in the early 19th century and has a stylised European appearance, with arched openings and faux red bricks trimming them.
Ave de la Menara. Open: daily 08h00-19h00. Admission: free.
Saadian Toobs
Situated in the north-west of the Kasbah, the beautiful Saadian Tombs date back to the mid 1500's and feature stunning coloured tile work, intricate carvings and grand marble pillars. Sultan Ahmed Al-Mansour, who ordered the construction of the mausoleum complex, was also the first to be buried there, and his tomb, not surprisingly, is one of the most ornate. The tombs were sealed in the early 1700's and nearly forgotten until 1917 when they were reopened.
Rue de la Kasbah. Open: Wed-Mon 08h30-11h45 & 14h30-17h45. Admission: MAD15.
Medersa Ben Yousef
This medersa (Koranic school) was built in 1565 for Sultan Moulay Abdullah el-Ghalib of the Saadians and was the largest in Marrakech with several hundred teachers and students. In its heyday it was the preeminent medersa in Marrakech, but it was closed in 1960 and is now open solely for visitors. The complex is centred on a lovely courtyard, with a fountain and reflecting basin. The walls and doorways are ornately decorated in a variety of materials: look out in particular for the fine prayer hall containing the mihrab (prayer niche).
Place Ben Youssef, just north of the souks. Open: daily 09h00-17h00. Mosque is closed to non-Muslims. Admission: MAD20.
The Medina
The ancient quarter of Marrakech inside the city walls is where most of the population resides and the major reason for its nickname "the red city". The 16km-long city walls and over 200 towers that circle the Medina all have a reddish hue that has become one of the city's defining characteristics.
The sprawling maze containing many souks follows the most traditional way of life, and its thick high walls conceal many treasures. Plain fronted doorways open out into pretty courtyards, revealing beautiful riads, restaurants and shops. Without question, the Medina is the most interesting part of the city. If you get lost, you can always pay a child to lead you out.
Ville Nouvelle
Also known as the modern city and Gueliz, this section of town to the west of the Medina is filled with wide boulevards, modern shops, business amenities, hotels and restaurants. Though not nearly as atmospheric as the old town, it has its own charms and is a good place to stay. Being modern, it has a more international feel to it than the rest of the city, and is thus popular with expats and wealthy Moroccan business people.
The Tanneries
The Tanneries, located within the souks, are where you'll find the dreadful smelling, stone vats that have remained relatively unchanged for hundreds of years. Traditional, natural ingredients such as saffron, poppies and indigo are still used for dying the leather, which is then left to dry in the sun. Tourists are not generally welcome in the tanneries, but a small tip can go a long way and if you get the chance to have a nose around inside, it makes for an interesting (if malodorous) experience.
Shopping
In Marrakech, shopping is centred around the Medina where the souks are renowned throughout the country for their quality and variety. Bear in mind that on some public holidays many shops will be closed or have limited opening hours.
The souks are generally open every day from 08h00/09h00-20h00/21h00. You will of course have to haggle when making a purchase: to get a good idea of what prices simple crafts should be, visit the government-run Ensemble Artisanal, on Avenue Mohammed V.
There are some more sophisticated outlets for shopping if you are looking for the best quality and have the money to spare. You will need to venture outside of the Medina to shops located in and around the large hotels, particularly in the Gueliz area where you can even find boutiques with air conditioning. For Berber rugs try La Porte d'Or in the Souk as-Smarrine or Dar El Kasbah (41 Rue Arsat El Maach) in the Medina. Handmade and antique jewellery can be found at Jewellery Saharian (176 Rahba Lakdima).
If you're looking to update your palm fringed riad in the Medina or you just want to find some new ornaments for your flat, check out Porte d'Orient (9 Blvd Mansour Eddahbi, Gueliz), which specialises in woodwork, embroidery and pottery; much of it custom-made.
Again in Gueliz, Scenes de Lin (70 Rue de la Liberté) is a good place to hunt for textiles and furniture in modern designs with a Moroccan flair.
Marrakech is arguably the best place in Morocco for buying a handmade Berber rug. The pile rugs of the High Atlas, which are what you will mainly find in Marrakech's souks are generally made of wool and have geometric designs, many of them decades old. For good rugs expect to pay anywhere from several thousand dirhams.
The buying process is usually long and tiring: first you'll be shown 50 rugs until you find the one you like. Then you may drink mint tea for a while, talk with the salesman about random topics such as the weather and your country. All the while the bargaining process is going on, slowly back and forth. It may take hours, and although the salesman may try to make you think he's lost money on the deal - don't believe a word of it!
Other finds in the markets include slippers, or babouches, brightly coloured, pointy-toed footwear that strike up images of Arabian princesses. Spices and incense of all sorts can be found in huge overflowing baskets. Pottery is also worth looking out for if you can transport it without breaking it. Iron mirror frames and ornaments are also quite charming albeit somewhat heavy to carry home.
In general, shops and boutiques open between 08h00/09h00-12h30 and 14h00-19h00. The souks are generally open every day from 08h00/09h00-20h00/21h00. Most shops/souks are closed on Fridays.
Getting Around
Menara International Airport is a small facility about 6km south-west of Marrakech. Flights go to most major Moroccan cities as well as to Europe, the Middle East and some international destinations. Many airlines operate in and out of Casablanca, where more frequent connections can be made. For general enquiries, Tel: +212 (0)24-44-7865.
There are no buses connecting the airport to the city centre, but taxis are available and will cost you between MAD50-100 for the 15-minute ride to the centre. Make sure that you agree on a price before setting off, as many taxi drivers do not use the meter and you may be overcharged.
Buses
Small public buses and shared taxis are Marrakech's system for mass transport, but for the most part the city is manageable enough to walk on foot. The system is not as sophisticated as say, Casablanca, but it does the job. Prices range from MAD2 to MAD5 and most buses and taxis stop at Djemaa el Fna.
The CTM coach station (Tel: +212 (0)24-43-3933) for long-distance services sits near Bab Doukkala, a MAD15 cab ride from the centre or a short walk away. Many private bus companies with fast, modern buses service destinations such as Essaouira, Casablanca, Rabat, Fes, Meknes and Ouarzazate and can be faster and more comfortable than the trains.
Trains
The train station is located on Avenue Hassan II (Tel: +212 (0)24-44-7768 /44-7703). Trains go to Casablanca (starting at MAD110) and on to Rabat, which have connections to most domestic locations in Morocco. Departures to either destination are frequent. There is an option of first or second-class, which differ, for the most part by the number of people in each car. Price differs very little. For further information, contact the National rail company ONCF, Tel: +212 (0)90-20-3040.
Taxis
Small, cheap petit taxis are readily available all over town. If the taxi does not have a meter or the driver just does not turn it on, you should arrange a price before getting in. Horse drawn carriages, or calèches, can be rented all over the city just like a taxi, albeit slower. Just like a taxi you will have to bargain for a price, but for a short ride it should not amount to much. For an hour's ride expect to pay about MAD80.
Car Hire
Marrakech has excellent roadways and driving is easy with clearly marked signs. However, many roads in the Medina are filled with obstacles such as donkey carts and crowds of people, which can be atmospheric but somewhat trying if you're behind the wheel of a car. Having a car really isn't a necessity in the city unless you're planning to go further afield.
Points to consider:
· If you do decide to hire a car, you will need to be at least 21 years of age and in possession of a valid driving licence.
· Carry both your driving licence and your passport at all times as police checks are common, particularly on hire cars.
· Distances and speed limits are marked in km.
· Speed limits across the country are 40-60km per hour in towns and built up areas, 100km per hour on main roads and 120km per hour on motorways.
· Road signs will usually be in French and Arabic. Insurance is essential and if you are already covered at home ask about green card cover valid for Morocco.
· There are major car rental agencies at the airport.
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