Tokyo
Tokyo,Japan's capital for the last 150 years is a thrilling, dynamic urban experience. Levelled by an earthquake in 1923, very few historical buildings remain. Instead the city is a shrine to development and Japan's drive for economic prosperity.
The geographical centre of the city is the Imperial Palace, a green oasis of tranquility around which modernity reigns. The financial districts of Hibiya, Marunouchi and Otemachi lie around Tokyo Station to the east and south of the palace, while out to the west are the vibrant neon-lit play areas of Roppongi, Omotesando and Shibuya. Further out to the north-east is an older area with narrow streets, the National Sumo Stadium and the impressive Asakusa Kannon Shrine.
The Tokyo of your imagination, where steel and concrete skyscrapers tower above frenetic streets lined with small food vendors and over-shadowed alleys lit with flickering neon exists in Shinjuku, the new heart of the city. Japanese inspired industrial chic films like Bladerunner and the cyberpunk novels of William Gibson long ago cashed in on the capital's unique blend of modernity and antiquity. But in truth it's rather less punky and rather more clean and sparkingly new than these popular images make out. Dingily lit ramen bars might be all right for the movies, but for the traveller a wealth of international class restaurants, department stores and entertainment shouldn't be overlooked.
The most striking thing you'll find in the city is the truly breathtaking innovative architecture found throughout. Head for Odaiba Island for the most quirky examples such as the Tokyo Big Sight's inverted pyramids or the concrete ocean liner that houses the maritime museum. And make sure you experience the Tokyo subway - the busiest urban mass transit network in the world, but don't go at rush hour.
Whatever you choose to see and do in Tokyo, and wherever you hail from, one thing that is guaranteed is that you'll never have been anywhere quite like it before. Come for the shopping and leave with a priceless unique dose of culture and innovation in one of the world's greatest cities.
SIGHT SEEING
Tokyo is one of the world's great cities and just being here is enough to wow all but the most blasé tourist. The sheer energy, cultural emphasis and general busy-ness of the place make even a simple tube ride an adventure.
There is also a quite bewildering range of museums you can search for and the energetic tourist can find museums dedicated to such diverse items as beer, kites, drums, renewable energy, tobacco and salt. What follows is just a selection of suggestions to get the best out of your time in Tokyo:
ASAKUSA KANNON SHRINE
Originally built in the 7th century, the Asakusa Kannon is technically the oldest in Tokyo. The shrine has been rebuilt many times however, according to the ancient pattern, with the latest being erected in the 1950s following the war. The approach to the Asakusa Kannon is a wonderfully cheerful pedestrian path lined with stalls and shops. Mostly these offer tacky souvenirs but there are some good ideas for gift shopping. Take time to browse through these stalls, while munching a skewer of yakitori from one of the food vendors.
The Asakusa Kannon itself stands at the end of the road, through a large shrine gate, or torii called The Kaminarimon - the Gate of the God of Thunder - with its distinctive red lantern. The many-roofed shrine can't fail to impress. A large-scale version of wooden temples that lie all over Japan, it's beautifully decorated and definitely one of Tokyo's must-sees.
Admission: free. 5 mins walk from Asakusa station on the Ginza and Toei Asakusa lines.
SUMIDAGAWA RIVER TRIP
Departing from Hinode Sanbashi wharf near Odaiba, a boat journey up the Sumida River to the Asakusa Kannon takes about 30 minutes and is by far the most interesting way to get to the shrine.
Starting in the mouth of busy Tokyo Bay, the boat route passes several curious new developments of high-rise apartments before turning into the older canals and passing through the industrial backwaters. This is a great opportunity to get a whole new perspective on Tokyo and see a side of the city you wouldn't have expected existed.
Tickets: JPY660. Near Hinode station on the Yurikamome monorail.
SHINJUKU
This is the Tokyo that people expect, a city of dizzying skyscrapers. Shinjuku is home to most of the tallest buildings in Tokyo while, down below, the shadowed streets are always crowded and buzzing. The train station here is famed as the world's busiest, with several million people passing through it daily - getting lost here is part of the fun - really.
Shinjuku is the heart of international Tokyo, home to all the major department stores, many smaller chains and boutiques and the predictable quantities of Starbucks, McDonalds and the like. But besides the shopping and restaurants it is worth coming here simply to spend time people-watching. The sheer density of people can't fail to impress even big city visitors from London and New York, and Japan's quirkier citizens such as the trendy high school girls wearing the fashion of the moment - which can be anything from silver lipstick to foot-high platform shoes and crazily wrinkled socks - will keep you entertained. Nearby Higashi-Shinjuku meanwhile is the seedy side of the city, think flickering neon and ramen bars - just as alluring in its own way.
TOKYO TOWER
Built to resemble the Eiffel Tower, the Tokyo Tower reaches an incredible 333m (1093ft) into the air. The exhibits and attractions inside are a little bit tired, more reminiscent of an ageing British coastal resort than the sophisticated French capital but you can choose whether or not to inflict these on yourself or not.
The only real reason to come to the Tokyo Tower is for the views. Wait for a clear day before taking your trip as you'll be able to see all the way to Mount Fuji to the south-west and the Japan Alps that rise to the west. If it's cloudy, you'll still be able to make out the Imperial Palace, Tokyo Bay and the towers of Shinjuku mapped out around you, but the experience certainly isn't as good.
Open: daily 09h00-22h00. Admission (main observatory): JPY820, adults; JPY460, children. Tel: +81 (0)3-3433-5111. Near Kamiyacho station on the Hibiya line.
THE YAMANOTE LINE TOUR
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HARAJUKU AND THE MEIJI SHRINE Two lanterns mark the start of the approach to this famous landmark at the top of Omotesando, a wide, tree-lined shopping street with restaurants and shops either side. The Oriental Bazaar souvenir shop is on the left about half way down and should definitely be thoroughly checked out for gifts to take home. At the bottom of Omotesando is Harajuku, a busy shopping district with cut-price clothes and accessories, popular with Tokyo's more alternative teenagers and twenty-somethings. | ||
THE IMPERIAL PALACE The Imperial Palace lies in the heart of the business district and is a defining landmark in Tokyo geography. The palace itself is concealed within the Imperial Gardens, a green oasis in the heart of downtown Tokyo. Tourists are not permitted into the inner gardens except at New Year and on the Emperor's birthday; during the rest of the year the closest the visitor can get to the palace is the hour-long circuit round the carp-filled moat. Nevertheless it is an intensely beautiful setting and a fabulous inner city park. GINZA Tokyo is one of the world's great shopping capitals and Ginza is the epicentre of the city's shopping experience. If you've got cash to blow and comfortable shoes, this is the place to go. Head for the area's massive department stores, start at the top and work your way down. For browsers, the food halls offer a huge range of weird and wonderful delicacies, some of which you might be keen to try - others maybe not so much. ODAIBA ISLAND |
This artificial island connected to the city by a monorail was something of a white elephant for decades. Created by landfill, it lay empty for years, failing to attract public or business attention.
Now though, Odaiba has reinvented itself as a playground for Tokyo's citizens and on weekends it is packed out with people who come to enjoy the various ultra-modern attractions on offer. You might be wise to avoid the manmade beach when the sun's out as people flock here in their thousands to top up their tan, but the massive shopping malls and the general quirkiness of such attractions as the Tokyo Big Sight conference centre are well worth seeing. Tokyo's Maritime Museum here too is a magnificent piece of typically Japanese architectural exuberance. A massive concrete edifice in the shape of an ocean liner it traces the city's seafaring history.
The pièce de résistance is the magnificent Rainbow Bridge, over a kilometre in length and complete with pedestrian walkways and viewing platforms. It's well worth making the effort to walk it.
NATIONAL SUMO STADIUM AND TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM
Sumo tournaments take place six times a year and are held in Tokyo's National Sumo Stadium in January, May and September. Tickets for the standing areas can be obtained by queuing on the day and if you're lucky enough to get to go you'll be treated to a unique mix of religion, culture and sport. Even if a tournament isn't going on, the building is worth a look and you could pop in to a local restaurant to try chanko-nabe, the calorific stew that constitutes the staple diet of the wrestlers.
Behind the Sumo Stadium is the Tokyo-Edo Museum, depicting Tokyo's evolution from sleepy fishing port to Imperial capital to economic megalopolis. Traditional exhibits are combined with ultra-modern displays and lifesize reconstructions of parts of the city. It is an absolutely massive and absorbing complex, so a flying visit is out of the question.
Museum open: Tue-Sun 09h30-17h30 (open until 20h00 Thu-Fri). Admission: JPY600, adults; JPY300, children. Information in English is supplied. Tel: +81 (0)3-3822-1111. Near Ryogoku station on the Sobu line.
SHOPPING
Tokyo is a shopper's city and everywhere you go you'll find malls crammed with stores. Generally you get a bit of repetition of the merchandise available, but you should still explore, as the super modern malls are as fascinating as the stores they are home to.
Shibuya, Ginza and Shinjuku are the major shopping areas. The best bargains aren't generally found here, but being honest there are few genuine bargains to be had for the tourist shopper in Tokyo. Ginza is the most upmarket area with a selection of designer stores, while Shibuya and Shinjuku cater for shoppers with less expensive taste.
If you need a specific item a department store is the best place to start. Head for Shinjuku Station, which is surrounded by massive multi-level stores. Major chains Keio and Isetan have entrances directly on the station and both offer excellent international services including tax-free shopping and European languages. Mitsukoshi is the Harrod's of Tokyo, designed along European lines to offer the very best in service and refinement. Branches are found in all central locations around the city, with large outlets in Ginza and Shinjuku.
Other leading Japanese stores to look out for in the city include Seibu, Marui, Sogo, Hankyu and Takashimaya, all of which boast several floors of goods including clothes and accessories, furniture and home furnishings, crockery and kitchen items, cosmetics, perfume and gifts. Muji is a relatively new store that should be familiar to Europeans. Designed as an alternative to the overcomplicated fashions of the 90s the Japanese chain has become a fixture on many international city highstreets. Everything is for sale from pens and paperclips to sofas, beds and bikes, and everything is designed to Muji's distinctive plain and simple style. Interspersed among these you'll find Western imports including The Body Shop, Gap and Virgin Megastore.
Harajuku is good for cheap clothes and anything embroidered with a skull and crossbones or studs. As you might have guessed it is a popular place for Japanese youth to get their punky clothes, and some of the outfits border on the outrageous. Further up the hill, Omotesando has several small shops that are more conventional, offering a range of clothing and souvenirs. The Oriental Bazaar here has three floors of goods to tempt the tourist. Reasonably priced, it is the best place to go if you need presents for a long list of people.
Japan has long been famous for its technology. In Tokyo, Akihabara is the electronics area and the place to be if you're after a video, hi-fi, computer or combination of all three.
Markets
Tokyo doesn't really go in for markets but there are one or two worth a visit. Flea markets take place at the Togo Shrine in Harajuku on the first and fourth Sundays of each month (Harajuku Subway) and at the Nogi Shrine on the second Sunday of each month (Nogizaka Station).
Huge antiques fairs are held several times a year at the Heiwajima Centre out near Haneda Airport. (For details of dates and location, see the Japan Times listings). These are well worth a visit - occasionally cheap kimonos or tansu wooden chests can be found and there is generally an interesting array of traditional and modern items on show. The approach to the Asakusa Kannon Shrine is lined with little souvenir shops and stalls where you may find a treasure or two.
WHAT TO BUY
This is a tough one to call. Everything is for sale here that you could expect to find in London, Paris or New York and specialities are few and far between. Fashion naturally is big on the highstreet but Japanese style can often be a little over the top for Western tastes, particularly the space-age teenage clothing.
Prices really aren't cheap in Tokyo and there aren't many bargains to be found. An exception may be the electronic goods in Akihabara. Look around the stores here for quirky Japanese personal electronics, particularly games. In terms of value for money Tokyo isn't really the best place in Japan to buy traditional Japanese crafts such as lacquerware, pottery and ceramics, wood block prints and decorative knick-knacks such as chopsticks and wooden Daruma good-luck dolls. However, if you aren't travelling any further into the country these are well worth purchasing and are souvenirs idiomatic of Japanese culture.
The traditional Japanese kimono would make a fabulous souvenir but genuine silk is very expensive. Yukata (light summer kimonos made from cotton) are a better option and make excellent dressing gowns. Sake tastes good anywhere in the world and is an easily portable example of Japanese cuisine. Decorative bottles are often available for tourist souvenirs.
Amusing technological gadgets of the Tamagochi ilk are a good buy. The Japanese always have something new to play with, usually impenetrably off-beam to Western eyes but no less fun for all that. Japan is also home to many of the world's best computer and videogame manufacturers but make sure you check out the facts about regional compatibility before you shell out on any hard or software. Akihabara in the city is the best place to find shops selling all this kind of stuff.
GETTING AROUND
One of the busiest commuter cities in the world Tokyo has a transport system second to none anywhere. Even so at rush hours the central train and tram lines are impossibly crowded, although the notorious "pushers" aren't always in attendance. At other times you should have no problem finding your way around, even if you can't read Japanese the system is extremely user friendly for tourists.
Narita Airport
Narita Airport is the main gateway for international arrivals into the city. It is located nearly 70km east of Tokyo proper but is well connected via train to the city. Tel: +81 (0)476-345-000.
Trains
JR trains run between Narita Airport and Tokyo Station and take between 50 and 80 minutes to arrive in the city, depending on whether you get a fast train. Fares for the express trains are around JPY2940. Keisei line trains run into Ueno station in North Tokyo and are cheaper than the JR trains at around JPY1920 for the trip. You can connect to the Yamanote city centre line at Nippori. Trains leave from stations underneath both airport terminals.
Limousine Buses
If you are staying in one of the big hotels, the limousine bus is a good option. Buses run to major hotels in Tokyo and Yokohama and also to Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT), from which you can change to the Hanzomon subway line at Suitengumae. Tickets cost around JPY3100 and it takes about an hour to get to TCAT, longer for hotels based in Western Tokyo. Tickets for the limousine bus are on sale at the orange desk as you emerge from the arrivals hall.
Taxis
Unless you're planning on paying a very high bill don't even consider taking a taxi, it's at least a 70-minute drive to central Tokyo and the roads get very jammed. The tariff will vary according to time of day and exact destination but you can expect to pay JPY25000 minimum.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Tokyo is the very definition of mass public transport - and it has to be with over five million people on the move through the city centre every day.
Subways and trains
A veritable maze of 12 subway lines crosses Tokyo with impressive efficiency, while privately run and public overland trains connect out to the suburbs. You'll find a lot of your navigation is done by subway stations nearest to your destination, and with such an extensive network it's foolish to try to make sense of the city any other way on short acquaintance.
Make your first investment a good subway map (you can also pick them up for free) and the rest is easy. Lines are colour coded and the terminus station is used to indicate the direction of the train. Tickets starting from JPY1000 for an unlimited day card are bought from machines or at ticket offices in main stations.
Generally the system is user friendly - multi-lingual machines are available - but if you get the wrong ticket you can pay the difference at the end of your journey in any case. The attendants seem pretty used to dealing with gaijin travelling on the wrong ticket.
A ticket is needed to enter and exit stations. You should note that there are two distinct companies that run the underground network. The city runs four of the lines, collectively called the Toei. The other eight lines are run by a private company - interchanging between the two lines carries a surcharge payable at the barrier. To circumvent these complications you can purchase a Metrocard from a ticket office instead. This operates on a debit system with credits removed from the card each time you pass through a barrier.
Of the overground routes the Yamanote line is one that you will quickly become familiar with: it goes through all the major areas of the city in a massive loop. Tokyo station is the main gateway for rail transport entering and leaving the city. The infamous superfast bullet trains (Shinkansen) connect from here to other cities across the nation.
BEST RAIL PASS: If you plan to travel widely in Japan, it is probably worth buying a Japan Rail Pass, which is valid on all JR trains in Japan, including Shinkansen (bullet trains) apart from the super-express Nozomi. The pass can only be bought outside Japan and only visitors on temporary tourist visas are entitled to use it. You can buy them at most Japanese airline offices or travel agents. |
Buses
Buses have their destination written on the front and are a good option for seeing more of the city. Citywide buses charge a flat rate of JPY200 and you must put the exact money on a conveyor belt at the front of the bus when you board. Change machines are available inside the bus - feed your notes into a slot and coins will pour out allowing you to pay your fare.
English language signs aren't standard on buses as they are on the trains however, so you might have slightly more problems navigating. Computer displays and recorded announcements give information on the route and upcoming stops. European language map guides are available at tourist places and prove very useful, as do your fellow passengers if you get really lost.
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