Venice
In the rich cultures of Europe and celebrated cities of Italy, few places capture the imagination as much as Venice. Its fabled canalled thoroughfares and gilded palaces possess a beguiling beauty unsurpassed by anywhere else on Earth.
No-one can forget their first view along the Grand Canal, Venice's main artery that bisects the city. Grandiose buildings in fabulous colours lean at crazy angles over dark water - at any moment you feel they could collapse into the lagoon, and this most precious of cities disappear forever. Overall there is an atmosphere of carpe diem, Venice is a city for enjoying now, as tomorrow, you feel, it may be gone.
Here the world is turned on its head - priceless art is commonplace and the bland is the exception: in its imperial hey-day Venice spent vast reserves of money on trinkets to augment its already beautiful architecture. Ships flying the flag of the Golden Lion brought back wealth from the Indies and the city shamelessly lavished it on fripperies, becoming famous for its decadence. It is a heritage that tourists now reap unashamedly. Everywhere you go you'll find works of art - in the architecture itself or within the walls of the palaces and basilicas that are liberally sprinkled in every area of the city.
Venice is an ever-changing, living canvas. No other place has such a mutable geography where you can discover delightfully peaceful piazzas and deserted canals seemingly unmarked on any map. No two wanderings through its back alleys are ever the same, and even people who have lived here for decades can still be surprised by a chance turning.
Flooded with tourists in summer and with the waters of the lagoon in autumn, Venice endures with the patience of a noble and bejewelled dowager. Teetering on the edge of ruin yet still fêted by all who are exposed to its gaudy charms. simply because there is nowhere else quite the same...
SIGHT SEEING
Venice is a unique city and an ordinary street is an attraction in its own right. However, the many palazzi and piazze are absolutely stuffed with artistic and architectural treasures.
All visitors to Venice should consider buying the Venice Card. This gives you use of the main tourist services around the city for its duration, including optional discounted Alilaguna transfers to and from the airport, vaporetto services in the city, use of public toilets around the city and admission to key museums and attractions. Venice cards are available for various durations of one, three or seven days, and are available in two versions - Blu, which gives free public transport and use of toilets, and Orange, which also includes admission to museums including the Doge's Palace. |
GONDOLA RIDE
The most romantic way of touring Venice's canals is in a gondola. You can find gondolas (and gondoliers, naturally) for hire at almost all the main tourist points and along the Grand Canal. The limousines of Venice's waterways, a gondola can carry up to six people - although your partner might think it bad form if you were to "cab share" on a romantic tour of the city's canals. A gondolier will normally take you on at least part of the Grand Canal and to St Mark's (San Marco) basin during your tour, but exact routes depend on where you embark.
Prices vary slightly but are usually around the EUR65 mark in the day and EUR80 at night. Unlike some things in Venice gondola tour prices are not open to haggling and if you do it's likely to offend the professional pride of the gondolier.
DOGES PALACE
Standing in St Mark's Square the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace) is the grandest building in the city. Started in the mists of the 9th century the palace has undergone revisions and rebuilding regularly throughout its history and, architecturally, is an eclectic mix of styles. Inside, the palace is packed to the rafters with art drawn from many periods but particularly the Renaissance. The rooms of the Doge are sumptuously decorated in stark comparison to the far more Spartan prison rooms in the complex.
Open: daily 09h00-19h00 (Apr-Oct); 09h00-17h00 (Nov-Mar). Admission: EUR12, adults; EUR6.50, children. Tel: +39 041-271-5911.
BRIDGE OF SIGHS
Although technically part of the Doge's Palace this completely enclosed bridge is an enduring image of Venice. Used to transport prisoners from the gaol on one side to the palace courts on the other it was Englishman Lord Byron who (envisaging the condemned taking their last glimpse of Venice's beauty) originally dubbed the structure "The Bridge of Sighs", or "Il Ponte dei Sospiri".
In actual fact few condemned prisoners would have walked the 16th century bridge, but it is still a powerfully beautiful structure. Admire its charm from the exterior before crossing it through the palace. Included in the cost of palace entrance
THE CAMPANILE
The Campanile dominates St Mark's Square. This huge bell tower is visible from all over the city, and is a useful landmark to aim for if you get lost wandering Venice's alluring back-streets. Like most things in Venice the campanile has a colourful history. The whole thing actually collapsed as recently as 1902 but amazingly nobody was injured (apart from an unfortunate cat) and the tower was swiftly rebuilt. The view from the top, out over the lagoon and the city, is probably the best in Venice.
For a fee and weather permitting, an elevator takes visitors to a high viewing gallery. Open: daily 09h00-19h00 (Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct); 09h00-21h00 (Jul-Aug); 09h30-16h15 (Nov-Mar). Admission: EUR6, adults; EUR3, children. Tel: +39 041-522-4064.
ST MARK'S BASCILICA
The centrepiece of St Mark's square the huge basilica dates back to the 9th century. However, even this hasn't been immune from the Venetians' grandiosity and wealth, and was first extensively rebuilt in 1063. Further programmes of restoration and renovations have kept the basilica in a fantastic state of repair. The dome with its attendant murals and frescoes is particularly spectacular. Prepare to be dazzled by the brilliantly gleaming gold altar screen.
Piazza San Marco. Open: daily 09h45-16h30 (Oct-Apr); 09h45-16h00 (May-Sep). Before 09h45 open only for private prayer and mass from the Piazzetta dei Leoncini door. Some areas of the basilica charge an admission fee. Shorts and vest tops are not allowed. Tel: +39 041-522-5205.
RIALTO BRIDGE
The Ponte di Rialto was once the only permanent bridge connecting one side of the Grand Canal with the other. For this reason it has a powerful place in Venetian history. The architectural masterpiece is now permanently teeming with holidaymakers eager to get the best view down the Grand Canal, and locals equally eager to hawk their souvenirs to passing tourists from the bridge's twin arcades.
At the foot of the bridge is the Mercato Di Rialto (Market of Rialto). Although it's a working market, even the Venetians consider it somewhat special, with its natural flamboyance and range of products drawing tourists and locals alike.
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION
The most complete modern art collection in Venice the Peggy Guggenheim makes a welcome break from the Renaissance art and architecture that is so much part of Venice. The collection was originally privately owned by tycoon Peggy Guggenheim who made her home in Venice in the Palazzo Venier dai Leoni. When she died in 1979 she bequeathed her entire collection, including works by such notables as Kandinsky, Ernst and Dali, to "The Peggy Guggenheim Foundation", which now displays them in the building where its benefactor once lived.
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 704. Open: Wed-Mon 10h00-18h00. Admission: EUR10, adults; free, children (under 10). Tel: +39 041-240-5411.
MUSEUM OF NAVAL HISTORY
Outside the centre of the city is the Museum of Naval History (Museo Storico Navale). Housed in an old warehouse near the Arsenale (where the Venetian Navy used to sail from) this naval museum shows off Venice's proud seafaring history. Over four floors the museum is stuffed with full-sized ships and naval models. Highlights include the model of the Bucintoro - the state barge - and the museum's gondola collection, which demonstrates the changing fashion of this unique boat over the years. While here take the opportunity to wander round the Arsenale area - this is where master boatbuilders can be seen making or repairing modern day gondolas.
Museo Storico Navale, Riva San Biagio, Castello 2148. Open: Mon-Fri 08h45-13h30; Sat 08h45-13h00. Admission: EUR1.55. Tel: +39 041-244-1399.
GALLERIA DELL'ACCADAMEIA
The most important gallery in one of the most artistic cities in the world the Accademia is the biggest and best collection of Venetian art on earth. The gallery's 24 rooms are packed with the distinctive works of such geniuses as Giambellino, Cima da Conegliano and Giorgione. Highlights include Titian's last painting, Pieta, and the nine-canvas cycle of paintings entitled Stories from the Life of St Ursula by Carpaccio. A visit to Venice is incomplete without at least one trip to the Accademia and you'll need two to do the entire collection justice.
Dorsoduro 1050. Open: Mon 08h15-14h00; Tue-Sun 08h15-19h15. Admission: EUR6.50, adults; EUR3.25, children. Tel: +39 041-522-2247.
SANTA MARIA DEI FRARI
Often known just as "the Frari" this massive Gothic structure is second only to St Mark's in Venice's plethora of great churches. The Frari arguably outdoes its rival in its incredible works of Renaissance religious art that makes the church one of the best haunts in Venice for art lovers.
Look out in particular for pieces by Tintoretto, Bellini's "Madonna and Child with Saints" and Titian's altarpiece "The Assumption". Titian himself is actually buried in the church and has an impressive memorial within, although even he is outdone by the simple majesty of the pyramidal memorial to sculptor Canova, also buried here.
Campo dei Frari. Open: times vary through the year, but generally Mon-Sat 09h00-18h00; Sun 13h00-18h00. Admission: EUR2.50. Tel: +39 041-275-0462.
GETTING AROUND
Venice's public transport is, for obvious reasons, unlike anywhere else on earth by virtue of being on water. However, once you're used to this facet of the system it is not dissimilar to most cities. Buses and taxis ply the main thoroughfares of the city round the clock, allowing you to get where you want to go with ease.
Marco Polo International Airport
The Marco Polo Airport is approximately 12km from Venice island and is situated on the mainland.
Buses
The easiest way to get to the city from the terminal is via conventional bus. There are two services running from the airport to Venice Piazzale Roma, where you'll have to transfer to water based services. Buses run approximately every half-hour with the journey taking between 20 and 25 minutes.
The ATVO bus runs between Piazzale Roma and the airport, leaving the airport between 05h00 and 20h20, returning between 08h50 and 00h00. Tickets are available from the ATVO ticket stand at the airport arrivals lounge. The single fare is EUR3. For bus information, Tel: +39 041-138-3672.
Alternatively, you can take the ACTV bus to Piazzale Roma, operating between 04h00 and 01h10. Tickets can be bought at the ACTV stand in the arrivals lounge. The single fare is EUR1. For bus information, Tel: +39 041-272-2111.
Water Buses
The alternative is to travel into the city via water. Alilaguna runs motor boat services every half hour from the airport to Piazza San Marco and interim destinations as well as on the Lido. They operate between 06h10 and 00h10. Ask at the water bus information booth in the arrivals hall for the most convenient destination for your hotel. The fare from the airport to San Marco is EUR12 and the journey takes approximately 1hr15mins. Contact Alilaguna on Tel: +39 041-240-1711.
If you have ordered and obtained your Venice Card then you can choose to add on the water shuttle transfer to your card payment. For an additional EUR23 you will be shuttled between the city and the airport on arrival and departure. For Venice card info and booking Tel: +39 041-2424.
Water Taxis
A water taxi will take you directly to wherever you want to go in the city, but will cost substantially more than any alternative form of transport. Ask the driver the price before embarking but expect to pay at least EUR70. Tel: +39 041-522-2303.
Treviso Airport
Treviso airport is about 40 minutes drive from Venice island.
Buses
ATVO runs buses from Treviso airport to Venice island. Bus services timetable have been set up according to the flight times and vary each day. Departures from the airport operate between 08h15 and 22h20, and from Venice Piazzale Roma between 06h10 and 19h40. The transfer costs EUR5 one-way and EUR9 return. For more information, Tel: +39 042-231-5327.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Venice is one place on earth where you'll actually want to catch a bus. This mundane activity is an attraction in its own right as you take to the canals. ACTV operates all public transport in the city including vaporetti and road buses on the mainland. Holders of the Venice Card Orange can enjoy unlimited travel on the ACTV network for the card's duration. Tel: +39 041-2424 for details.
Water Buses (Vaporetto)
The waterbus is equivalent to its land based brethren. The service is surprisingly punctual and regular and runs from the early morning until about midnight, when a "nightbus" plies just one of the major routes. Destinations are posted on the front of each boat but all of the vaporetti run to a seemingly arbitrary series of rules that means stops are sometimes missed out or the boat stops short of its terminus. Ask if in doubt.
Generally speaking you should buy your ticket before you travel from a Vaporetto kiosk, machine or at a tobacconists (tabacchi). Tickets should be validated in the machine at the entrance to the jetty before you board. Otherwise you have to buy your ticket from the driver when you board, and stump up a surcharge for the privilege.
The most useful bus for visitors is the No.1, which runs from Piazza le Roma to Piazza San Marco (St Mark's Square) regularly. Trips cost EUR6.
If you are planning to frequently use the vaporettos, travel cards are an ideal option. You can buy your tickets at the Vaporetto kiosk before boarding and at the tourist office. Prices are as follows:
12 hours: EUR13
24 hours: EUR15
36 hours: EUR20
48 hours: EUR25
72 hours: EUR30
Alilaguna operates a series of lines around the city including direct connections to the airport. Holders of the Venice Card receive discounted travel on the network.
Traghettis
If you merely want to cross the Grand Canal a good option is to use the traghetti - these basic gondola shaped boats ply their trade back and forth across the canal at points between the bridges.
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